Shifting Sands

One of the interesting side effects of spending lots of hours at the beach, feeding our passion, is watching and understanding the changes that are taking place around us, and beneath us, as we kite back,and forth, powered by the wind, which is, itself a factor in the changes that are constantly playing out. If you were to visit the same beach 5 days in a row, you might not notice much has changed. But if you visit that same beach every day for years... You'll know that it can be a very dynamic place. In the summer the waters edge may be 25 meters from the dune. In winter, only a few meters. The course sands of s.Florida are constantly in motion, levetated by breaking waves, driven to and frough by currents from the north, or south, redirected by jetties,and piers, then factor in the daily ebb, and flood of the tides, and you can figure there is a lot going on beneath the surface that we can't see. The 2011'fall season has been one of the best on record! We have had more than our fair share of strong winds and big surf. And all of this action has reshaped the sea floor in a big way. sand bars have formed, holes have been gouged out. Between the sand bars and the shore, channels form at the waters edge. Created by the action of waves washing onto the beach, then back in, the turbulence loosening the sand, and suspending small particles just long enough to be swept away in the N. Or S. currents. As the volume of water increases in these channels, delivered in set of waves, the water finds some small deep spot along the coast (the path of least resistance), and returning to deeper water, takes more sand with it, and a rip current is born. By observing the waters surface we should be able to analyze what is going on below. Choppy, non breaking swells well off shore indicates deep water. Breaking waves, means the water is becoming shallow. If the waves are steep, this means the swells are encountering a shelf or reef suddenly from deep water. If you're kiting along near shore and find a super flat butter slick! Beware ! You are in very shallow water! Many novice kiters have difficulty riding ocean side in the beginning. Understanding that the conditions that exist straight out from where you rigged your kite, may not be the same as you will encounter 50 yards to the north or south will give you a possible edge if you just know where to look. In east wind for example, you need a little room down wind, to get up to speed, before edging out. Climbing into chest deep water 10 feet from shore is not a good start. Before you attempt it, look up and down the beach. You may spot a sand bar, where you can walk in knee deep water 100 ft out, and up wind! DON'T LOOK AT THE WORLD THROUGH A TOILET PAPER TUBE! Use you peripheral vision! For more advanced riders, analyzing the terrain can make the difference between riding in doubled up, back washed slop. Or discovering a secret spot of emerald nuggets, and slipping into "The Green Room!"